tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82815579552305291282024-03-12T15:56:09.198-07:00Mountain PhysicsMatt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-6193925645065508032010-09-04T14:41:00.000-07:002010-09-04T14:41:12.910-07:00More Photo's<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIK8nAB_VyI/AAAAAAAAAHk/b786TxNyWkU/s1600/Indian+split.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIK8nAB_VyI/AAAAAAAAAHk/b786TxNyWkU/s400/Indian+split.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indian Creek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIK5r65NEaI/AAAAAAAAAHc/Yr8qUr0_has/s1600/Finger+locks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIK5r65NEaI/AAAAAAAAAHc/Yr8qUr0_has/s640/Finger+locks.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finger Locks... Purple Camalot's </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIK3BNUxxXI/AAAAAAAAAHU/001gvtFQiXQ/s1600/conductor+crack+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIK3BNUxxXI/AAAAAAAAAHU/001gvtFQiXQ/s400/conductor+crack+.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conductor Crack 5.10d </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKuAcP-tPI/AAAAAAAAAG0/GcC3MEgF7TI/s1600/jugg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKuAcP-tPI/AAAAAAAAAG0/GcC3MEgF7TI/s400/jugg.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me cleaning, somewhere near the pancake flake pitch. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKx-56rZGI/AAAAAAAAAHE/chwAL-HzgoU/s1600/noseexpose.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKx-56rZGI/AAAAAAAAAHE/chwAL-HzgoU/s400/noseexpose.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Cap </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKvBeQM2KI/AAAAAAAAAG8/UReAQ6o3Mtg/s1600/camp+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKvBeQM2KI/AAAAAAAAAG8/UReAQ6o3Mtg/s400/camp+4.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whats a portaledge... Aren't those things expensive. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKy21kXbjI/AAAAAAAAAHM/K_H8WdsykXc/s1600/great+roof.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TIKy21kXbjI/AAAAAAAAAHM/K_H8WdsykXc/s400/great+roof.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">5am under the great roof </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-16497236616780234292010-08-31T17:23:00.000-07:002010-08-31T18:03:49.610-07:00Downhill<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2ZmhmTImI/AAAAAAAAAF8/sVzvEa6UIJY/s1600/mike+2+edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2ZmhmTImI/AAAAAAAAAF8/sVzvEa6UIJY/s400/mike+2+edit.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2amCU0MgI/AAAAAAAAAGE/AdrfhZUvk4Q/s1600/Mike+edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2amCU0MgI/AAAAAAAAAGE/AdrfhZUvk4Q/s400/Mike+edit.JPG" width="400" /></a>Alright time to switch it up a little bit. The other day me and a few buddies decided to ride the lifts at the resort and rip some of the downhill. Here is a few shots I grabbed. Riders: Mike Zimmer, Jake Stinson, and Randall Townsend<img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2blxaJZgI/AAAAAAAAAGM/TRlN4YiBXW8/s400/randall+edit.JPG" width="400" /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2kRb_mSZI/AAAAAAAAAGs/HsAeSgTuJ6o/s1600/mike+take+off.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2kRb_mSZI/AAAAAAAAAGs/HsAeSgTuJ6o/s400/mike+take+off.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2gvQCQ6PI/AAAAAAAAAGU/BsSrrt0O8R4/s1600/Jake+air+edit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2gvQCQ6PI/AAAAAAAAAGU/BsSrrt0O8R4/s400/Jake+air+edit.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2hZ_bUz4I/AAAAAAAAAGc/krj4RwF47ME/s1600/Jake+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2hZ_bUz4I/AAAAAAAAAGc/krj4RwF47ME/s400/Jake+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-20981215363908613782010-08-31T16:32:00.000-07:002010-08-31T16:42:56.329-07:00The Grand Teton (13,770 feet)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/THySij3dg8I/AAAAAAAAAFU/-TmUg9arwoM/s1600/Grand+Teton.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/THySij3dg8I/AAAAAAAAAFU/-TmUg9arwoM/s320/Grand+Teton.JPG" /></a></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2OxJ8khmI/AAAAAAAAAFc/TkvGOzxXz_o/s1600/grand+summit+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2OxJ8khmI/AAAAAAAAAFc/TkvGOzxXz_o/s320/grand+summit+.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A summit photo taken with my ancient cellphone. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2P2bXO84I/AAAAAAAAAFk/MiC3oDixzJM/s1600/Teton+Green%21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2P2bXO84I/AAAAAAAAAFk/MiC3oDixzJM/s320/Teton+Green%21.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grand Teton from the west</td></tr>
</tbody></table> The Rocky Mountains run through the western half of Wyoming and form The Teton range. They rise out of the landscape abruptly and are home to year round snow fields, glaciers and unpredictable rock. The peaks are craggy and rugged and have substantial vertical relief. These characteristics are what give nearby Jackson Hole ski resort some of the best lift access ski terrain in the country. I spent last winter here in Jackson and there wasn't a single day that passed where I didn't look at The Grand and think about standing on top. The first ascent history is vague in that no one is quite certain who climbed the peak first. Most people will recognize William O. Owen along with Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson, and John Shive as making the first ascent in 1898, however the peak saw earlier attempts. Note (although Owen gets credit, Spalding was the rope gun for this party). In 1872 James Stevenson and Nathaniel Longford claimed to have climbed The Grand, yet by their description and sketches, they most likely climbed the nearby Enclosure peak. It is often said that The Grand Teton strongly resembles Europe's Matterhorn. I had a weather window in the thunder storms that often plague the Tetons and decided to make an attempt. Good thing because it's now snowing above 9,000ft. I planned to solo climb via the Owen-Spalding route. The route traverses north around the west face and then goes up to the summit block. It is described as being exposed in places and gets the rating of 5.4. The guidebook however, lists a few pitches as being 5.5. It is not uncommon to find ice on the route in august. I got up at 3:30am and put in my Ipod. I spent the morning hours with my thoughts considering my solo and working myself into a state of focus. When I reached the base of the route I took time out to read the topo. There were two guys roping up that eyed me cautiously, and asked me if I wanted to pass and if I was alone. I told them yes and thanked them while moving out onto the west face. The first section was spectacular, as the whole mountain dropped out below me. Moving smoothly across these exposed traversing sections, I reveled in the freedom and commitment of being ropeless. I soon found myself at the base of the Owen chimney. As I started up, I found that a lot of the rock was choked with ice. This made my situation even more delicate. A slip here would have extreme consequences. I moved surgically, checking twice that every hand and foot hold was secure and ice free. As I moved upward passing old petons and layers of ice I felt energized with the thought of standing on top. Easy sections of 3rd and 4th class rock brought me to the summit blocks, and before I knew it I was standing on top. I sat on top for a while and let my mind go blank as I looked out over the Tetons. I uncoiled the rope I had been carrying on my back and began the rappels down. This had indeed been one of the most magical summits of my summer and being alone allowed me to fully appreciate my place in the mountains. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2QgyWMKyI/AAAAAAAAAFs/Bmn64ikyk8I/s1600/Teton+sunset.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TH2QgyWMKyI/AAAAAAAAAFs/Bmn64ikyk8I/s400/Teton+sunset.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset behind the Tetons </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-50054800936332644262010-08-17T16:34:00.000-07:002010-08-30T18:42:46.643-07:00Mt. Whitney (14,496) 8/16/2010<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGroSQkF0gI/AAAAAAAAAEs/sqUNYCc6F5s/s1600/Whitney+and+me.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGroSQkF0gI/AAAAAAAAAEs/sqUNYCc6F5s/s320/Whitney+and+me.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> From left to right; Day Needle, Keeler Needle and Mt Whitney's east face. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table> Mt. Whitney is the tallest peak in the lower 48 states. It has two prominent sides that are climbed. There is the surprisingly moderate west side, which offers a long, 22 mile round trip, hiking trail to the top. Then there is the dramatic east side, which is home to more technical climbing. The permit system for hiking or climbing this impressive peak is extremely restrictive, so I was really lucky to obtain a permit the day before I planned on climbing. My plan was to climb from the east side of the mountain, solo, car to car, in a day. Via the mountaineers route. Admittedly, the route I was planning is the easiest technically on the east side (a scramble), but it would be my first time on the route, I would be alone and I would be going for speed, meaning no extra gear. (yes mom I brought my helmet ;) East side routes are most often climbed in two days. One for the approach into the back country/acclimatization, and one for the climb and decent. I needed to moved fast and take care when climbing and route finding. An alpine start was mandatory, so I crawled into my bag with the alarm set for 4:00 am. I had packed my bag the day before so I could throw it on and start moving immediately. When I woke and went down to the "bear box", I found that someone had left the latch open and a bear had ravaged my gear! I repaired my bag with gorilla tape (really quality duck tape) and started to clean up the garbage. As for my food, Yogi ate my breakfast and my lunch. I had a really nice nectarine, so I don't really blame him. Luckily he left me 5 granola bars scattered in the parking lot. I'm not opposed to sharing but come on!! Ok, four liters of water, 5 granola bars, helmet, rainshell, down jacket, ipod, 14,496 feet. Check.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/THWMm09_PyI/AAAAAAAAAFM/mdrj7kBLo_8/s1600/bear+box.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/THWMm09_PyI/AAAAAAAAAFM/mdrj7kBLo_8/s320/bear+box.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">The scene at 4am. My pack is just out of view with the top torn off... </td></tr>
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After overcoming this little speed bump half asleep, I set out on the trail at exactly 5am. A little late for my liking, but still on track. The route starts on the hikers trail (8,360 ft) and quickly branches off to steeper and more technical terrain. I had spent last week at sea level, so this was going to hurt. Reaching the summit would mean an elevation gain of about 6,136 ft over rough and convoluted terrain. I had set my turn around time for 1:30pm meaning if I wasn't on top by then, I would give up and turn around. It's important to set concrete limits for yourself before setting out into the mountains, and abide by them. This prevents "summit fever" which has been the source of an untimely demise for many climbers. Also, afternoon storms move in quick and without warning.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGsQylMVAEI/AAAAAAAAAE0/L3W4hOrljlI/s1600/Sunrise.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGsQylMVAEI/AAAAAAAAAE0/L3W4hOrljlI/s320/Sunrise.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise in the Sierras and a long way to go...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGsSTHNz7XI/AAAAAAAAAE8/NZlpLSL5xks/s1600/bow.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGsSTHNz7XI/AAAAAAAAAE8/NZlpLSL5xks/s320/bow.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Always reserve time for a quick thank you...</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</tbody></table> My headlamp guided me through the early sections of the route and as the sun started to rise I became energized by the setting I suddenly found myself in. The interior of the Sierra mountains is spectacular. It is a seemingly endless kingdom of granite spires and rugged beauty, a place I will be sure to return to with a climbing partner for some of the more technical and challenging peaks. Inspired by location, (and the divided sky jam pumping through my headphones) I kicked it into high gear and started to feel the altitude burn my lungs. Much of the difficulty of this route was maintaining motivation, and route finding. However the last few thousand feet were semi technical loose climbing that demanded my complete focus. I stood on the summit at around 10:45 and descended via the same route. I was able to "scree ski" a thousand foot gully which saved me a lot of time, and had me day dreaming about winter. I was back at my truck at around 2:45pm with a headache from a quick decent and dehydration. All said and done the route took about 9hours and 45min. With about 45 of them sitting on top. Although you always feel you could have done something harder, higher, or faster. It is certainly great training for more difficult and remote alpine peaks and is a step in the right direction! <br />
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</div>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-46561793225796021982010-08-14T12:39:00.000-07:002010-08-14T12:59:04.984-07:00Less Words, More Pictures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbSmZ6rDAI/AAAAAAAAADc/QrjPB-hMKgA/s1600/corey+muir.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbSmZ6rDAI/AAAAAAAAADc/QrjPB-hMKgA/s320/corey+muir.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corey Nauman working on his space walk. Muir Wall (El Cap)</td></tr>
</tbody></table> I figure that most people just like to see photography anyway, so I decided to make a post of all pictures. Obtaining quality climbing photos is hard work, as the best ones are usually shot from the top down. Logistically this proves difficult. Usually your proudest or most significant climbing moments are left to memories. Your glory is honest, shared with few people.. When moving fast and light, like on our one day ascent of halfdome, there is rarely room or time for personal photography. Here are a few that we have managed to collect this summer. Thanks to Shane, Corey, Jerome, Alfredo and anyone else who held the camera. (Please click each one for a full size image)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbsEn5s4eI/AAAAAAAAAEc/9OrimGVkTco/s1600/shield.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbsEn5s4eI/AAAAAAAAAEc/9OrimGVkTco/s320/shield.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unknown climber in space on the Shield (El Cap) </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbzAvOEUEI/AAAAAAAAAEk/wMvriAQ_kJs/s1600/lightining+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbzAvOEUEI/AAAAAAAAAEk/wMvriAQ_kJs/s320/lightining+.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on the final pitch of Lightning Bolt Cracks. (North Six Shooter, Canyonlands, Utah) </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbq1q6jNJI/AAAAAAAAAEU/vtnOu40fNKA/s1600/master+cam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbq1q6jNJI/AAAAAAAAAEU/vtnOu40fNKA/s320/master+cam.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Master Cam </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbonl1LKDI/AAAAAAAAAEM/2YiSOy7qVcA/s1600/lost+arrow+tip.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbonl1LKDI/AAAAAAAAAEM/2YiSOy7qVcA/s320/lost+arrow+tip.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shane Houbart and Corey on the incredibly exposed Lost Arrow tyrolean traverse. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbeBii0IdI/AAAAAAAAAD8/BPlrCI6M6sY/s1600/amit+air+time+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbeBii0IdI/AAAAAAAAAD8/BPlrCI6M6sY/s320/amit+air+time+.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amit takes flight on Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. (Tuolumne Medows, CA)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbgteeXTOI/AAAAAAAAAEE/Pi6cngv7cFs/s1600/horeshoes+and+hand+grenades.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbgteeXTOI/AAAAAAAAAEE/Pi6cngv7cFs/s320/horeshoes+and+hand+grenades.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amit firing the crux and getting the redpoint of Horseshoes and Hand Grenades (12a)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbbIZi7pMI/AAAAAAAAAD0/YG6i-kWpWJE/s1600/frado+undies.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbbIZi7pMI/AAAAAAAAAD0/YG6i-kWpWJE/s320/frado+undies.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tighty whities are still hip in Venezuela. (Fredo and Shane, El Cap)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbUtekMccI/AAAAAAAAADk/7IfHUtjIQIc/s1600/frado+lost+arrow.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbUtekMccI/AAAAAAAAADk/7IfHUtjIQIc/s320/frado+lost+arrow.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alfredo Zubillaga on Lost Arrow Spire (w/ Yosemite Falls)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbXd-zD49I/AAAAAAAAADs/dhDcfao2SoY/s1600/amit+belay.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGbXd-zD49I/AAAAAAAAADs/dhDcfao2SoY/s320/amit+belay.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;">Ok, open the Supertopo big walls book and look at that picture of Tom Frost on the FA of Salathe. Amit Tawfik on Salathe (El Cap, Yosemite CA) </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: justify;"><br />
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</tbody></table>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-46546438371386801862010-08-12T12:00:00.000-07:002010-08-12T12:00:41.077-07:00Eastern Sierras<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGQ7TX7D0PI/AAAAAAAAADE/C2dZ0ALVtvo/s1600/quartz+corridor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGQ7TX7D0PI/AAAAAAAAADE/C2dZ0ALVtvo/s320/quartz+corridor.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The all quartz corridor leading to the summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table> After spending so much time in Yosemite valley, it is a refreshing change to come over to the nearby Sierras. Much higher in elevation, the sierras are home to spectacular alpine climbing in cool temperatures. You won't find crowds over here as the approaches to the classics can take multiple hours. Basing myself from the small ski town of Mammoth provides great access to much of the regions climbing. Yesterday we got acquainted with the area by climbing crystal crag. The route was easy and wandery with a lot of loose rock, but the views were amazing and its a nice way to get yourself back into this particular style of climbing. This route gets it's name from the unbelievable amount of pure white quartz that makes up the summit. Its really strange to climb pure quartz like this as I have never experienced it any where else. Therefore I didn't really know its friction properties. It didn't much matter though because the climbing was extremely moderate. All along the route and at the base you find hand to boulder size chunks of quartz that look like snow; its really cool. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGQ_U1JNwJI/AAAAAAAAADM/Aqd-meVy2M0/s1600/colleen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGQ_U1JNwJI/AAAAAAAAADM/Aqd-meVy2M0/s320/colleen.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colleen with Mammoth lakes down below </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGRDQeEJWAI/AAAAAAAAADU/KvEcUTsHCyI/s1600/summit+block.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TGRDQeEJWAI/AAAAAAAAADU/KvEcUTsHCyI/s320/summit+block.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
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</tbody></table>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-35941657566359013392010-08-03T09:00:00.000-07:002010-08-03T09:00:01.860-07:00Jerome and Bertha Climb Leaning Tower In a Heat Wave<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFcvWO32l3I/AAAAAAAAACs/bwHEK-Uc0JA/s1600/LT+with+falls.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFcvWO32l3I/AAAAAAAAACs/bwHEK-Uc0JA/s320/LT+with+falls.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaning Tower's dramatically steep face </td></tr>
</tbody></table> The morning of of July 16 found Yosemite Valley in the high 90's. Although most climbers had fled the valley for cooler temps, it did not detour the unlikely team of Jerome Smart and Big Bertha. In the early hours of the morning the audacious pair found themselves racking up at the base of the West Face of Leaning Tower (America's steepest wall). Jerome won the rock paper scissors and quickly took the lead. After 400 hundred feet of climbing the two arrived at the bivy ledge and struck camp. Bertha had committed to fixing the next two pitches that evening, but had a panic attack due to the steep and scary terrain above. Jerome, faced with the option of retreat or climb on..., chose to send. The next morning the team awoke to another day of hot temps and Jerome proceeded to take a twenty foot fall on the seventh pitch when the cam he was standing on blew out. Luckily, Bertha is a highly skilled belayer and arrested his fall without incident. Jerome took them to the top of the wall since Bertha was still timid to lead and a bit shaken up after Jerome's fall. When asked how Jerome felt about Bertha not pulling her share of the work all he could say is, "Well, I can't really be too upset with her, she doesn't have any arms or legs."<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFcwEcn42nI/AAAAAAAAAC0/Q4h0fZmcHpM/s1600/haul.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFcwEcn42nI/AAAAAAAAAC0/Q4h0fZmcHpM/s400/haul.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bertha out in space engaging in her typical behavior of complete uselessness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-19288887047704492842010-08-02T08:00:00.000-07:002010-08-02T13:20:37.875-07:00A little history.. A historic first ascent In the 1950's and 1960's modern American rock climbing was being born. No place more than Yosemite valley California were the boundaries of this emerging sport being pushed harder. With the easy access to extremely high quality granite and some of the most enormous most impressive walls on the planet, climbers of this era were no doubt inspired. At the time climbers were using European pitons made of soft metal. However, it was quickly understood that the malleable iron and soft steel were no match for the hard rock found high up on Yosemite's walls. It is necessary to place, then remove the gear both for ethical reasons and also to use again higher up. These soft pins would mash and stick after only a few placements. Then the game changed. In the late 1950's and early 60's climbing legends John Salathe, Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard pioneered new designs for various pitons in hardened steel. They would go on to use this new gear to conquer some of Yosemite's tallest most terrifying walls.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFXd4__VxRI/AAAAAAAAACU/1DX5ujjUndY/s1600/2007_3_1_little_cottonwood_3_piton_zoom_512x-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFXd4__VxRI/AAAAAAAAACU/1DX5ujjUndY/s320/2007_3_1_little_cottonwood_3_piton_zoom_512x-1.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old Yosemite grade piton typical of the 1960's </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFXgN5QsG9I/AAAAAAAAACc/G_4pPkn7KFw/s1600/el+half.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFXgN5QsG9I/AAAAAAAAACc/G_4pPkn7KFw/s320/el+half.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The top of El Cap (left) and Half Domes NW Face lit up (center)</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Climbing as in any sport, is sometimes fueled by egos and one upmanship. In the 50's and 60's this was no different. Two of the major players were Royal Robbins and Warren Harding. On June 28, 1957 Robbins along with Gallwas, and Sherrick stood atop Half Dome having climbed the sheer 2,000 foot face of Half Domes north west face. They had just completed the most difficult wall climb in North America. This would mark a historic first ascent in American climbing history and would even be the inspiration for the North Face companies logo. Warren Harding was devastated that he missed his chance to claim the first ascent on one of Americas most impressive monoliths and knew that the only way to surpass this accomplishment would be by claiming the first ascent of El Capitan. At this point, there had never been a technical rock climb of this scale or difficulty attempted. Although the face of Half Dome is huge and technical, it does not compare to the sheer magnitude of El Capitan. Using methods only previously found on high altitude expeditions, Harding used fixed ropes and stocked camps to link this massive features endless pitches. A mere six days after the first ascent of Half Dome, Harding would turn his team to El Capitan and begin their long struggle. The thin cracks found on Yosemite's walls were ideal for the pitons of the time and climbers of the day would bash one in and then pull on it to gain upward progress. This method of climbing is formally known as "aid"; where one uses artificial gear to gain upward progress. Today the more pure style is ''Free'' climbing where one uses his or her hands and feet to move up on the rock and places only removable gear as protection in the event of a fall. After three days of climbing the party reached the now famous 300 foot long 2 and 3'' cracks that appeared completely unclimbable. At the time there was no gear wide enough to place in these cracks, and therefore upward progress could not be achieved. Harding however, had foreseen this obstacle and had claimed four legs off a wood stove from a Berkeley California dump. He used these absurd tools to cover this challenging ground. This section of the route would be forever known as "the stove legs'' cracks. Today, with modern climbing techniques and gear, the stove legs cracks offer brilliant and exposed free climbing. Traffic jams increased as tourists on the valley floor gawked at Harding and his team high up on this impossible face. The next section of the route that loomed with impossibility was the boot flake. There is a huge white boot shaped flake of rock that hovers on the side of El Cap and marks the end to a crack system that the team was following. To gain the next set of cracks Harding would lower of "the boot" and pendulum wildly to his left 1500 feet above the valley floor. This was the wildest pendulum to ever be attempted and is known today as the "king swing". This is indeed one of the most... exciting... sections of the route. Harding cycled through many partners as the weeks dragged on and the climbing became more committing; eight to be precise. Harding pushed on and on November 11, 1958 arrived at the completely blank overhanging section of rock that would be their only path for reaching the top. they were 2,800 feet up the wall and increasingly battered. What Harding did next would become known as the most famous climbing episode in Yosemite's history. Starting that evening and working into the morning Warren Harding hand drilled 28 bolts in a row by head torch, an epic that would take 14 straight hours and leave him utterly broken. However at 6am he pulled the rim of El Capitan, changing climbing forever. Harding modestly named his new route "The Nose" and if you have ever stood below El Cap this seems appropriate. The route ascends the center of El Caps massive buttress. All in all the ascent took 45 days over 18 months and had re-defined what was possible in the vertical world. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFXjW1XgKCI/AAAAAAAAACk/1xYbP6iKyp8/s1600/harding.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFXjW1XgKCI/AAAAAAAAACk/1xYbP6iKyp8/s320/harding.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harding on the Nose </td></tr>
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Source: Super TopoMatt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-84774833562054014592010-07-31T17:50:00.000-07:002010-08-30T18:33:30.365-07:00Lurking Fear When we finished the Nose I was pretty drained and a bit scared of El Cap. We had joked on the way up that when we topped out we could sell our racks and quit climbing. . . Well that's just ridiculous. Climbing El Cap once kinda feels like you got away with something. If we could climb it again we would prove to ourselves that we were justified in our ascent. Also, once you have climbed it, it's all you can think about. So the day before yesterday we decided to climb another route up this spectacular wall. We chose Lurking Fear and planned for one night on the wall; climbing and hauling faster than before. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTAaAp20TI/AAAAAAAAAB0/WxfvMkaiSSM/s1600/Lurking+fear%21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTAaAp20TI/AAAAAAAAAB0/WxfvMkaiSSM/s320/Lurking+fear%21.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jerome on lead.. </td></tr>
</tbody></table> Your nerves are always on end before a big or difficult route, but you get better at managing it. Learning to separate imminent danger from irrational fear is a huge part of success on big walls, and climbing in general. Also, learning to compartmentalize fear and simply focus on the individual movement in front of you is necessary. Highlights of the route were on pitch 11 when I had to make delicate cam hook moves through a roof traverse with all that space below.. or watching Jerome bump #4 and 4.5 Camalots into an 80 foot runout on pitch 8. A huge moon greeted us on the ledge that night and we woke up feeling hungry for what lay ahead. Feeling stronger and more confident than before we cruised along for two days and one spectacular night and reached the rim right before nightfall. Blahhhhhhhh!!!! El Cap, Again.... I'm reeling with excitement.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTCI53f75I/AAAAAAAAAB8/ghDejD1V7yY/s1600/fear+rack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTCI53f75I/AAAAAAAAAB8/ghDejD1V7yY/s200/fear+rack.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racking Up</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTDRsVrvCI/AAAAAAAAACE/K1doUkNSozk/s1600/fear+drop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTDRsVrvCI/AAAAAAAAACE/K1doUkNSozk/s200/fear+drop.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just Getting Started</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTEUbGlzrI/AAAAAAAAACM/6WQE5puaVz0/s1600/mountain+physics+lurks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFTEUbGlzrI/AAAAAAAAACM/6WQE5puaVz0/s320/mountain+physics+lurks.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain Physics on top</td></tr>
</tbody></table> Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-68668749949304875782010-07-31T16:52:00.000-07:002010-07-31T16:52:37.834-07:00The Nose<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFSx-AuwVEI/AAAAAAAAABc/GJ1ZevBGQaw/s1600/drop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFSx-AuwVEI/AAAAAAAAABc/GJ1ZevBGQaw/s320/drop.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> For the past six years the Nose route up El Capitan has consumed my thoughts. Every rock climber has heard of this famous route and most, somewhere in their minds, dream of climbing it. However, big wall climbing is a unique discipline that signifies the "next level" in anybody's climbing career. As much mental strength is needed as physical and commiting to multiple days on the wall is, well... difficult. I spent all winter pouring over route descriptions and stories from this enormous cliff. Although this stood out as one of my life goals, how would I ever pull it all together? First step, move there. If you have never been to Yosemite valley its time to go. El Cap stands over 3,000 feet tall and is remarkably sheer to the ground. Photographs will never do this cliff justice. Rising 3,593 feet from the valley floor and 7,569 feet above sea level this thing is big. Imagine three empire state buildings stacked on top of each other and you might have a sense of this wall's sheerness. Jerome and I packed the haul bag in minor disbelief. We had climbed some shorter routes to train and we had set a date, it was time. In early June we spent three days and two nights on the wall discovering exactly what it takes to climb a wall like this. El Cap turned out to be unbelievably flawless, Intensely committing, and relentlessly terrifying. I am humbled. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFSzbU_DcuI/AAAAAAAAABk/gXLCxG9WU9U/s1600/jnose.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFSzbU_DcuI/AAAAAAAAABk/gXLCxG9WU9U/s320/jnose.JPG" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFS1Y3mcjTI/AAAAAAAAABs/LTOiCnDtlP8/s1600/DSC00420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TFS1Y3mcjTI/AAAAAAAAABs/LTOiCnDtlP8/s320/DSC00420.JPG" /></a></div>Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-76977581375817502102010-07-27T17:38:00.000-07:002010-07-27T17:38:12.084-07:00<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE90uCn_ZZI/AAAAAAAAABU/TFHcxalovIw/s1600/rope+swing+.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE90uCn_ZZI/AAAAAAAAABU/TFHcxalovIw/s320/rope+swing+.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alcove Swing </td></tr>
</tbody></table>All children are fascinated with the sensation of swinging. As kids we hang out on swing sets. As we grow a little older rope swings (usually into water) are the name of the game. When we loose our minds a little and dedicate huge chunks of our lives to climbing... well.. Yosemite has some of the biggest and scariest swings you can find. A valley favorite and always in motion is the Alcove Swing. Walk the base of El Cap Scramble 3rd class up a slab and you will find a rope that extends a few hundred feet to the top of the alcove. Im pretty sure the anchor is equalized Rurp's and a copper head so its bomber... ;) The more elusive and trickier to set up is the Porch Swing. All that I will tell you is that its located up near the top of El Cap. The general beta is to lower off a GriGri until the rope pulls through. However as you can see, simply Jumping off the ledge is also effective... but not recommended. Its important to notice the 3,000 feet of sheer exposure under the swing.<br />
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<b>Porch Swing </b><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzTghc9_i1rKCZypy_52VQgSfHtgLPT-vAssDv4p3KBri4UK8W6mugOeY_wOiy5jU2m_bud83siFnPcG1zj5A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
Shane Houbart and Corey celebrate their ascent of Muir Wall with the pent up desire for a big fall. <br />
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Pics of the results of too much swinging to come shortly......Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-7122975175438098132010-07-27T15:30:00.000-07:002010-07-27T16:14:32.190-07:00Coooooookie Cliff!Dan Oppenheim/ Cookie Monster 5.12a<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE9lUwTfa8I/AAAAAAAAAA8/hQMURAEatkw/s1600/cookie+monster.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE9lUwTfa8I/AAAAAAAAAA8/hQMURAEatkw/s320/cookie+monster.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498725077281106882" /></a> <br /> After a short climbing hiatus spent with the family on the east coast, I returned to the valley to find temperatures tipping into the 90's. When temperatures soar in Yosemite, there are two options. <span style="font-weight:bold;">1.</span> Crack a cobra and float the river in some type of whole made duct tape contraption, or. <span style="font-weight:bold;">2.</span> Seek out the hottest crag in the valley and sweat it out on the rocks. We chose the latter, and the result was a great afternoon of cheering each other on at this infamous crag. Cookie cliff is host to some of the most famous and difficult cracks in Yosemite. Classics; established by climbing ledgends such as Henry Barber (Hot Henry), Jim Bridwell (The Bird), Royal Robbins and Kurt Smith. Highlights of the day were watching Alfredo grunt like a gorilla as he suffered to earn a redpoint on Outer Limits. Or valley local and big wall vet Dan Oppenheim working out the delicate and steep moves of Cookie Monster. Thanks to Jerome Smart for hanging on the line to snap these killer shots. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE9mZHVauQI/AAAAAAAAABE/8zsiq-m3brc/s1600/frado+outer+limits.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE9mZHVauQI/AAAAAAAAABE/8zsiq-m3brc/s320/frado+outer+limits.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498726251694307586" /></a> Alfredo/ Outer Limits 5.10b <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE9n_98k_FI/AAAAAAAAABM/Ozbpe3NNzK0/s1600/matt+cookie.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TE9n_98k_FI/AAAAAAAAABM/Ozbpe3NNzK0/s320/matt+cookie.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498728018700729426" /></a> Matt Tosi/ Outer Limits 5.10bMatt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-69293100388904548952010-07-22T18:36:00.000-07:002010-07-22T23:14:21.430-07:00Back to the creek<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEkAkLNse7I/AAAAAAAAAA0/Ze06XZrOSrg/s1600/levitate+.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEkAkLNse7I/AAAAAAAAAA0/Ze06XZrOSrg/s320/levitate+.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496925441667922866" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEj_lEQQVbI/AAAAAAAAAAs/Yi7zh2j2NEI/s1600/north+six.JPG"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEj_lEQQVbI/AAAAAAAAAAs/Yi7zh2j2NEI/s320/north+six.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496924357467854258" /></a><br />Spring in Indian Creek is like the fall; spectacular. Remote and with a feeling of freedom not left in many climbing areas, Indian creek is characterized by rugged beauty, windgate sandstone, and a multitude of cracks so perfect and bare its as if god himself intended for them to be climbed. Thanks to Ray Jardine we can. Sandstone buttresses sprawl in every direction and beyond that lies the endless myriad of the canyon lands. The north and south six shooters are landmarks in this area and on my second day in the creek my climbing partner decides we should climb the north six shooter. Jerome is always stoked to climb and has a composure about him on lead that i'm constantly jealous of. The north six shooter is one of the most magnificent formations in this part of the desert. It stands alone and rests elegantly along the skyline. Therefore we have to climb this thing. The next day Jerome, Sarah and I set out in my truck and rally along the rugged cattle road that snakes the base. Lightning Bolt cracks is the cleanest and most classic choice for climbing the north six shooter. Jerome racks up and digs into the thin fingers start of the first pitch, cruising up in no time to a chossy anchor. Again, Jerome takes the second pitch to the base of the alcove and hands over the rack. Time to see if I can still climb. S**it. Ok, so i am honestly a little bit nervous here. I haven't led anything out of the gym since my accident. Jerome turns to me and slyly asks me if I want the number one or the number two. I bid for the two and he pops it out of the belay that were sitting on and tells me to send it. That people, is what I'm talking about! I pull the lip and am psyched that I chose the #2. It goes in perfectly through this powerful move. The three of us enjoy a beautiful summit and I am renewed with a new confidence that I have not felt in a while. We climb for a few more days at the creek and then, its back to the plan that had cheated me a year earlier. Yosemite ValleyMatt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-78812764701730422892010-07-22T16:10:00.000-07:002010-07-22T16:35:19.005-07:00Light The Wick<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/J2ff3vyud7M&hl=en_US&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/J2ff3vyud7M&hl=en_US&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object><br /><br />On a snowier note. It looks like the boys at TGR have done it again. Get stoked for the snow, because skiing is just around the corner. Experimenting with 3D filming and apparently pushing it harder than ever, light the wick looks awesome... Can't wait for the premier.Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-26131163884359894232010-07-22T13:49:00.000-07:002010-07-22T14:54:30.127-07:00That Night<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEi6hc8S8tI/AAAAAAAAAAk/pQcsp6LU314/s1600/4191_569382830150_6903320_34803678_6014924_n.jpg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 262px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEi6hc8S8tI/AAAAAAAAAAk/pQcsp6LU314/s320/4191_569382830150_6903320_34803678_6014924_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496848429073232594" /></a><br /> I come to and John is leaning over me. He tells me that he has called the ambulance and its on its way. He looks seriously concerned and I start to discover why. The blue collared shirt that I am wearing is now stained with large crimson blotches. As a matter of fact the sidewalk beneath me is splattered in blood as well. Instantly I notice a sharp pain radiating from my toes to my knee. I use my shirt to press against my face and slow the bleeding. John helps me to the edge of the sidewalk and I close my eyes. Encouraged by the sound of approaching sirens, I slip back out of consciousness. Later that week John and I would run through the events of the evening trying to piece back together what had occurred. The enormous bump on Johns head would make it difficult to remember exactly what had happened. I had a badly broken ankle, a broken nose, and after the hospital called me back in twice for more testing, they determined that I had in fact not broken my neck. Sweet! We arrived on the conclusion that on the walk home we had been jumped by about six or seven guys. Completely outnumbered we were both pretty battered. The worst of my injury's was obviously my leg. He said it could have been weakened by a winter full of landings on skis. landings on free heel skis are usually backseat anyways so it probably hadn't helped. None the less, they got away and I was left facing surgery. Indeed I am the proud host to a metal plate and nine steel screws. At first I had a pretty positive outlook on the whole thing. I mean how bad could It be? Slap some screws in my leg stitch it up, do a couple months worth of pull ups and karma will take care of the guys who jumped us. Well after being on a roll for so long, I can assure you that the 4 months of immobility and the 3 months of babying my leg after that became torture. I would sit and dream of climbing, of those sunny days at Indian Creek. Could my new ankle stand the discomfort of crack climbing? Would I be able to boost cliffs into powder? I would have to tell my boss in Alaska that I would not be able to guide another season! Everything I loved was suddenly suspended in front of me and the longer it sat there, the more I wanted it back. So became my routine of crutching out to my parents garage and doing pull ups, push ups, and sit ups till my ankle screamed. The second I got my heart rate up all the blood in my body felt as though it would run directly to my leg. I knew that the pain meant fresh blood to the break and this would speed healing. So be it, More pull ups. I started that winter off in Jackson Hole and I had to get my Scarpa T-races molded twice as the swelling decreased over the course of the season. At first my leg, about half it's normal size had no hope of making a tele turn. Let alone on my 130's! so I started that season riding groomers and re-learning how to ski. Good thing there was no snow! Anyway enough of that, What doesn't kill you just makes you want to send it harder ;) So here we are all caught up to May 2010. Its been a year since I broke my leg and I'm once again packing the truck for Indian Creek. Lets finish what we started right? I just hope I can still climb. Training all winter in the gym where I worked I felt physically strong. But climbing plastic in the gym and climbing trad in Indian Creek are about as similar as ping pong and rugby...Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-33111522307756466592010-07-22T13:28:00.000-07:002010-07-22T13:43:45.196-07:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEishgKJ0mI/AAAAAAAAAAc/iunye_oy0b4/s1600/3254_566968074340_6903320_34697091_6237851_n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEishgKJ0mI/AAAAAAAAAAc/iunye_oy0b4/s320/3254_566968074340_6903320_34697091_6237851_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496833036773872226" /></a><br /> Ancient Art<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEisW-Ms0OI/AAAAAAAAAAU/9sZdIvRxwj4/s1600/3254_566968029430_6903320_34697082_6511715_n.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEisW-Ms0OI/AAAAAAAAAAU/9sZdIvRxwj4/s320/3254_566968029430_6903320_34697082_6511715_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496832855859056866" /></a><br /> John <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEisHioPCII/AAAAAAAAAAM/kg-4GwTB3sI/s1600/3254_566967999490_6903320_34697076_6228172_n.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Yh9kInvJ-GI/TEisHioPCII/AAAAAAAAAAM/kg-4GwTB3sI/s320/3254_566967999490_6903320_34697076_6228172_n.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5496832590760315010" /></a><br /> Supercrack aka. Luxury LinerMatt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8281557955230529128.post-45075670062915560542010-07-22T11:16:00.000-07:002010-07-22T13:21:34.050-07:00A bit of re-wind to last year.After a quick break from the valley I have decided to start a blog. It will take a bit of back tracking to fill you in on the last few months as they have been jam packed with climbing and stories from Yosemite. This is my first shot at blogging so bear with me as I work it all out... <br /><br /> I had just left an epic 08-09 ski season in Utah that had yielded nearly 800" I had spent the winter pushing my free heel skiing and now It was time to climb. I set out on my first real climbing road trip with my good friend John. <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">The Plan: </span>to climb at one area until we are too weak and then move on to the next.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">The Duration:</span> Till the money runs out.<br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">The Budget:</span> About 2,000 bucks between both of us.<br />We are on the open road for the first time in six months. The windows are down and the dry desert air whips through a bad hair cut John has given me with a pair of child scissors. We spent the winter packed the three of us, Scott John and I, in a tiny tiny room in the basement of the hotel where we worked. Three dudes in a 10x12 room on the basement level. "Man Camp". We both have an overwhelming sense of freedom running through us as we descend Little Cottonwood Canyon into the endless sprawl of Salt Lake City. We have just left our jobs as ski bums and we are headed to a place that has grabbed my attention as long as I have been climbing. Indian Creek. I am re-assured by the steel whine of Jerry's guitar peeling through the speakers of John's Toyota Pickup. As we drive down into the warmth of the city, I am glued to the inside cover of the current Black Diamond catalog. It is that famous picture of Earl Wiggins leading Super Crack, Aka (luxury Liner). I can picture it now from memory, buried up to his elbow in that perfect splitter while whipping out the next hex placement from his swami belt. I am tentative and full of excitement by the thought of leading this historic climb. I have never climbed cracks like this, Where am I going to find a rack of gold Camalots! After two or three weeks at Indian Creek, Even your grandmother can lead 5.10. Question: who needs a rack of gold Camalots? Your not going to fall out of perfect hands. Just bring two and walk them ;). Its time to move on. Physically drained.. our hands are wounded our muscles weak and our skin is stained red from desert sand. Laughing out loud and blasting country music we speed over countless cattle guards. We feel on top of the world. I had never experienced that sensation one gets when leaving the creek. Utterly drained, sunburnt and dirty, yet feeling like Arnold in pumping iron. "The greatest feeling you can get...The Pump". Feeling strong as Arnold and lead minded we could only head one place. Yosemite Valley California. After a quick stop at red rocks and a less than memorable spin through Vegas. We are headed for the big stone. We would stop off in San Francisco clog my sisters shower with red sand, grab a few beers and head up to Yosemite. Right... Wrong. These two days in San Francisco would be a major turning point in my life and teach me exactly what it means to be taken off your high horse.Matt Tosihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06208003662446119659noreply@blogger.com0